February 5, 2008

A Trend to Avoid: a tampered-with classique

DISCLAIMER: Upon further observation, I've realized that those are actually arm-warmers in the Dell'Acqua collection--Damn men.style.com for not having the "detailed shots" page for each show. The double standard in fashion: tsk tsk. Either way, I've decided to keep this entry because I think it provides good guidance as to how NOT to ruin a classic (and if you so choose to ruin it, ruin it with some taste and judgment).

DISCLAIMER 2: The rest of the Allessandro Dell'Acqua show is great. Look at it.
Original text:

Who thought it would be a good idea to cut the sleeves short on a blazer?

Sure, genius menswear designer Thom Browne featured them in his Spring 2008 show:


But then again, he also featured this:


...and this:
Point being, a majority of that show--codpieces, swim caps, shredded suits, flowered jackets--was slightly unwearable.

So what made Alessandro Dell'Acqua think it was a good idea to feature it as a serious staple in his collection?






And why the hell would Zac Posen wear this atrocity to sit as judge on Project Runway (Oh, how I wish I had a picture). Oh the excruciating irony!

Now, IF (A very large "if") one chose to attempt this look tastefully, one should look to Comme Des Garcons, spring 2008:


Observe how the sleeve doesn't cut off exactly at elbow length, making the garment look mature, less playful. Browne and Dell'Acqua's collections' blazers both cut off exactly at the elbow. Also, think of HOW to layer this look. There is a huge difference between the awkward space between the end of the blazer sleeve and the cuff of the shirt and a layering and thus soothing the harsh gap created by that space. Again, Comme Des Garcons:



Again, the sleeve cuts at just below the elbow. But where we see the second blazer there, one would roll back his shirt cuff to soothe the harsh cutoff--IE no French cuffs. Again, this is IF one attempts to pull off this... thing. And if you do; well, good luck.

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