The Best of Mens '08 (men.style.com is wrong)

Some words on what makes a collection "good" :

While menswear is certainly harder to do interestingly AND beautifully--as opposed to womenswear, where a designer can heighten the drama, experiment more with cut, proportion, silhouette, and the story of the show--some designers still manage to tell a story though their clothes, and still make them beautiful; the menswear scale goes from Calvin Klein (boring, functional, well-made clothes), to Thom Browne (theatrical, well-made, but not so wearable) just as in womenswear it would go from Calvin Klein (the master of boring) to Comme Des Garcons.

Logically, therefore, the best shows would synthesize theatrics with form and function. Don't get me wrong, I love Thom Browne, but you just can't wear this:

... Unless you actually are a conjoined twin. Now there's a niche market.

So here you have it, the best of the best of Fall/Winter '08 (and their best looks):

4. Lanvin

While there's not too much story here, the connecting elements such as the flowered lapels and general air of dandy make the collection complete. Designer Lucas Ossendrijver has his finger on the pulse with the new looser silhouette, and experiments elegantly with what looks like a double-breasted blazer that ties in the front. But then again, Lanvin always shows nice things.

Dandy plain and simple:

Here we see the new silhouette, cinched at the waist:


Here we have a highly structured, serious look offset by the playful exuberant blue bow tie. Fantastic:

Lucas Ossendrijver, himself, modeling his take on the double-breasted blazer:



3.Fendi

As previously discussed (See, Trendwatch 08' MEN, below) Fendi gets the new silhouette right, but also, there's some more experimentation with fur and cut. Everything is well done, simple, yet interesting.

Slouchy sweater with fur. So warm. There's nothing more to say:

The heavy fur trim gets all the attention, but one should not miss the neck of that shirt and the way that coat billows (not to mention that bag):

The cut of this coat is intensely interesting; I wonder how it opens/fastens:

2. Jil Sander:

We always see very basic things from Jil Sander, so it's very exciting to see very basic things go crazy: ridiculous patterns with the same old cuts. The show started with a few basic looks that one would look at and yawn, which preceded the upward spiral of ridiculous pattens for the rest of the show (The order of the looks provided narrative, coherence, sophistication):



Click on the picture to enlarge. Everything about this suit is fantastic. The high-neck shirt, the slim fit, and the moving-mable-rock affect. Stunning, really:

Here, We get humor with the very basic suits of various seasons contrasted with the new shirts inside (also, observe how the colors pop):

I just liked the way this leather coat was so ridiculously slim:



1.Burberry

While there's not too much story here, there are theatrical elements in the set; the leaves definitely fit with the clothes (and the season). The collection does, however have a sophisticated level of coherence through its use of pattern, bags, and hats. Also, I would wear EVERYTHING from this collection, and I would encourage you to do so as well.

A gorgeous pea-coat in brown:

The color combinations of this look are soft, harmonious, and look at that cardigan!

Of course, there has to be a suit:

I'm not sure what kind of material this coat is made out of, but it interests me. It seems almost plastic, especially in the way it crinkles:

This sweater. That bow tie. The hats. Amazing:



The best: Emanuel Ungraro

The best synthesis of drama, innovation, coherence and taste. Ungaro, we salute you!

The gypsy wanderer with the cane starts and ends the show (coherence!). Also the draping in this look is key.

The layering in this look is amazing. In addition, every garment this model wears is gorgeous.


Here we have an answer to the return of high-waisted womens pants. And they're done so well! This look works because of the short jacket, and the cravat. Nothing but good things:

Again, we see the strongest, most sophisticated articulation of the new Silhouette with Ungaro:


Here is our gypsy friend to finish the show in his cloth belt, still carrying his cane, modeling those fantastic high-waisted dress-pants. Nothing but ecstasy, here.




Most Dissapointing: Dior Homme

Cathy Horyn (god bless the girl) said it best:

"[The clothes] showed, in fact, a lack of expert judgment. If the purpose in using high-collared shirts (with dickies sometimes under them) was to extend the line of the black suits — to make the models look taller — why, then, did they look short and rather squat? The answer is the jackets stopped short of the belt line, squaring off their bodies, and the slim trousers were made of a stretch fabric, exposing musculature in a way that wasn’t, well, couture."

Gross, squat-model-making jacket pictured below:

Might I add, this butterfly motif was never readdressed throughout the rest of the show (poor coherence!):

I guess Van Asche didn't get the memo on how to tame the new silhouette (If you're not sure either, see previous post "Trendwatch '08 MEN") :

...Huh?

Is there any reason for this?

Hedi Slimane, we miss you.

See Horyn's full article at: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/22/fashion/shows/22PARIS.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=quote+the+classics&st=nyt&oref=slogin



But let's end on a pleasant note, shall we? Our gypsy friend will send us on our way:

A Trend to Avoid: a tampered-with classique

DISCLAIMER: Upon further observation, I've realized that those are actually arm-warmers in the Dell'Acqua collection--Damn men.style.com for not having the "detailed shots" page for each show. The double standard in fashion: tsk tsk. Either way, I've decided to keep this entry because I think it provides good guidance as to how NOT to ruin a classic (and if you so choose to ruin it, ruin it with some taste and judgment).

DISCLAIMER 2: The rest of the Allessandro Dell'Acqua show is great. Look at it.
Original text:

Who thought it would be a good idea to cut the sleeves short on a blazer?

Sure, genius menswear designer Thom Browne featured them in his Spring 2008 show:


But then again, he also featured this:


...and this:
Point being, a majority of that show--codpieces, swim caps, shredded suits, flowered jackets--was slightly unwearable.

So what made Alessandro Dell'Acqua think it was a good idea to feature it as a serious staple in his collection?






And why the hell would Zac Posen wear this atrocity to sit as judge on Project Runway (Oh, how I wish I had a picture). Oh the excruciating irony!

Now, IF (A very large "if") one chose to attempt this look tastefully, one should look to Comme Des Garcons, spring 2008:


Observe how the sleeve doesn't cut off exactly at elbow length, making the garment look mature, less playful. Browne and Dell'Acqua's collections' blazers both cut off exactly at the elbow. Also, think of HOW to layer this look. There is a huge difference between the awkward space between the end of the blazer sleeve and the cuff of the shirt and a layering and thus soothing the harsh gap created by that space. Again, Comme Des Garcons:



Again, the sleeve cuts at just below the elbow. But where we see the second blazer there, one would roll back his shirt cuff to soothe the harsh cutoff--IE no French cuffs. Again, this is IF one attempts to pull off this... thing. And if you do; well, good luck.

Trendwatch '08 MEN and the New Silhouette

The men's shows this year in Paris and Milan were surprisingly involved and theatrical. Amongst other things, an entirely new silhouette emerged, perhaps in backlash to the previous perpetual tightening of all men's garments. Baggy is the future, for now (unless you're Muccia Prada, who likes her men emasculated).

Now. As in life, and all of fashion, there is a tasteful, and a distasteful way to do trends. Let's see, shall we?

TASTEFUL:

---Sweaters:

Dolce and Gabbana: Luscious fabrics that fit slim in the torso and baggy everywhere else.


Dries Van Noten: That pattern is just great. Also the juxtaposition between the slouchy-fit sweater, and slim pant creates a nice balance.

Fendi: Big, thick, fur. Turtlenecks everywhere. So warm.

---Formalwear:

Yves Saint Laurent: What's interesting to me is how the pants are suddenly bootleg updates from the 70's. It's disconcerting (and expected) how quickly the fashion pendulum swings.



Emanuel Ungaro: By FAR the most articulate execution of the new boxier silhouette. Big pants held together by a slim torso. This look is fantastic.



Tasteless:

Dries Van Noten: Lackluster. Nothing interesting, just a poorly fitting suit.



Yohji Yamamoto: Making a skinny model look fat? No, not just fat, with royalty-caliber birthing hips. Even as part of a show, I just don't get it.

Just go back to Scotland and keep yourself warm.


Conclusions: The key to pulling off the new silhouette is the torso. If that's not slimmed down, neither are you (huskier clients need not purchase, sorry). The torso is where the symmetry of these looks comes together to create harmony.

To come:
-Masculin-Feminin
-Discussion of shows!

Trendwatch '08--"Tribal" Prints and Looks

A note on the word, "Tribal:"
It seems slightly ridiculous that a lot of fashion magazines and blogs talk about these prints as "tribal." We all know that they're African tribal prints. It's no secret. They're not Mayan, Aztec, or ancient Chinese prints, and they're certainly not Native American tribal prints. So what's the big deal with giving credit where credit is due? It's not like the fashion world has really ever been PC--it doesn't need to be, Art has no commitment to ethics. It seems that in effort to be politically correct, we've further distanced ourselves from the reality that Africa exists (yeah, it's still there, remember AIDS?). Fashion may have no ethical responsibility, but journalists do have a commitment to be accurate and truthful. Let's get our heads in the game, guys.

Anyway. As promised, African Tribal Prints:

Diane Von Furstenberg:

This is a gorgeous dress-
Now tell me this isn't Africa-inspired.



Comme Des Garcons:

--While these looks don't really have African tribal prints, the looks emit a sort of tribal feel

The fabrics, the face makeup, the hair. Also, Comme Des Garcons is just great.

Proenza Schouler:



Oscar De La Renta--By far the most sophisticated use of African prints--prints made chic by cut and overall look (look at those bangles!). Also, as far as sack dresses go, this one's a keeper.


And an African printed suit?! Just check out that cut and fabric!


C'est magnifique!