January 31, 2008

Trendwatch '08 MEN and the New Silhouette


The men's shows this year in Paris and Milan were surprisingly involved and theatrical. Amongst other things, an entirely new silhouette emerged, perhaps in backlash to the previous perpetual tightening of all men's garments. Baggy is the future, for now (unless you're Muccia Prada, who likes her men emasculated).

Now. As in life, and all of fashion, there is a tasteful, and a distasteful way to do trends. Let's see, shall we?

TASTEFUL:

---Sweaters:

Dolce and Gabbana: Luscious fabrics that fit slim in the torso and baggy everywhere else.


Dries Van Noten: That pattern is just great. Also the juxtaposition between the slouchy-fit sweater, and slim pant creates a nice balance.

Fendi: Big, thick, fur. Turtlenecks everywhere. So warm.

---Formalwear:

Yves Saint Laurent: What's interesting to me is how the pants are suddenly bootleg updates from the 70's. It's disconcerting (and expected) how quickly the fashion pendulum swings.



Emanuel Ungaro: By FAR the most articulate execution of the new boxier silhouette. Big pants held together by a slim torso. This look is fantastic.



Tasteless:

Dries Van Noten: Lackluster. Nothing interesting, just a poorly fitting suit.



Yohji Yamamoto: Making a skinny model look fat? No, not just fat, with royalty-caliber birthing hips. Even as part of a show, I just don't get it.

Just go back to Scotland and keep yourself warm.


Conclusions: The key to pulling off the new silhouette is the torso. If that's not slimmed down, neither are you (huskier clients need not purchase, sorry). The torso is where the symmetry of these looks comes together to create harmony.

To come:
-Masculin-Feminin
-Discussion of shows!

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