Something Wicked this Way Walks

These past few fashion weeks seem to have provided yet another dull color palette indicative of the current economic state. In a word, drab; it seemed to permeate the shows in a way that, well, was boring, unfortunately. Designers, under duress from fallen sales and a further spiraling economy, seemed to create safe, boring garments one after the other

We get it. The economy is bad; you still have to show a collection. You might as well do it well, okay?

There were exceptions, of course. Warriors in wool, leather, and makeup marched down the runway in combat against the economic influence; these models screamed "we're not backing down!"

Though, it was certainly peculiar how every designer who succeeded in marching forward into the future sending out warrior against the economy was almost directly inspired by Ghesquière's Balenciaga; I'm talking about Jil Sander and Rodarte.

As always, Jil Sander with Raf's brilliant focus on both the house's history, and the future of shape, cut, proportion and (thank god!) color, saves day with his thoughtful garments:

Now compare with Balenciaga Fall 2008:

See the resemblance (hint: the little black dress is made of soft crepe wool and is embellished with the same type of curvilinear shapes)? I'm not saying that this influence is a bad thing--don't they say that imitation is the greatest form of flattery?--these designers obviously can recognize a good idea when they see it, and then run. Here, Raf took the rigid structure typical of Balenciaga and expanded it, producing more whimsical shapes in what seems to be a luscious crepe wool.

Rodarte, on the other hand, took from Balenciaga's general bad-assery:

A warrior ready for the apocalypse if I've ever seen one (That fiery-red hair! ...not to mention the thigh-high bad-ass boots).

Compare to Balenciaga Fall 2008 and Spring 2007 (one of the best collections I've ever seen, period):

Fall 2008:

And Spring 2007:

Similar silhouettes, different fabric playbook. All amazing.

What is most important to note about these two designers is that they both are unconcerned with digging their heels into the ground in order to stay afloat (a bad idea, even metaphorically); they are looking to the future, molding the past into the beautiful clothes of tomorrow.

I'd like to point out that they hold the market on these niche clothes (Rodarte more so) because everyone else is playing it so safe; smart and sexy? A wicked combination.