Trendwatch '08 MEN and the New Silhouette

The men's shows this year in Paris and Milan were surprisingly involved and theatrical. Amongst other things, an entirely new silhouette emerged, perhaps in backlash to the previous perpetual tightening of all men's garments. Baggy is the future, for now (unless you're Muccia Prada, who likes her men emasculated).

Now. As in life, and all of fashion, there is a tasteful, and a distasteful way to do trends. Let's see, shall we?

TASTEFUL:

---Sweaters:

Dolce and Gabbana: Luscious fabrics that fit slim in the torso and baggy everywhere else.


Dries Van Noten: That pattern is just great. Also the juxtaposition between the slouchy-fit sweater, and slim pant creates a nice balance.

Fendi: Big, thick, fur. Turtlenecks everywhere. So warm.

---Formalwear:

Yves Saint Laurent: What's interesting to me is how the pants are suddenly bootleg updates from the 70's. It's disconcerting (and expected) how quickly the fashion pendulum swings.



Emanuel Ungaro: By FAR the most articulate execution of the new boxier silhouette. Big pants held together by a slim torso. This look is fantastic.



Tasteless:

Dries Van Noten: Lackluster. Nothing interesting, just a poorly fitting suit.



Yohji Yamamoto: Making a skinny model look fat? No, not just fat, with royalty-caliber birthing hips. Even as part of a show, I just don't get it.

Just go back to Scotland and keep yourself warm.


Conclusions: The key to pulling off the new silhouette is the torso. If that's not slimmed down, neither are you (huskier clients need not purchase, sorry). The torso is where the symmetry of these looks comes together to create harmony.

To come:
-Masculin-Feminin
-Discussion of shows!

Trendwatch '08--"Tribal" Prints and Looks

A note on the word, "Tribal:"
It seems slightly ridiculous that a lot of fashion magazines and blogs talk about these prints as "tribal." We all know that they're African tribal prints. It's no secret. They're not Mayan, Aztec, or ancient Chinese prints, and they're certainly not Native American tribal prints. So what's the big deal with giving credit where credit is due? It's not like the fashion world has really ever been PC--it doesn't need to be, Art has no commitment to ethics. It seems that in effort to be politically correct, we've further distanced ourselves from the reality that Africa exists (yeah, it's still there, remember AIDS?). Fashion may have no ethical responsibility, but journalists do have a commitment to be accurate and truthful. Let's get our heads in the game, guys.

Anyway. As promised, African Tribal Prints:

Diane Von Furstenberg:

This is a gorgeous dress-
Now tell me this isn't Africa-inspired.



Comme Des Garcons:

--While these looks don't really have African tribal prints, the looks emit a sort of tribal feel

The fabrics, the face makeup, the hair. Also, Comme Des Garcons is just great.

Proenza Schouler:



Oscar De La Renta--By far the most sophisticated use of African prints--prints made chic by cut and overall look (look at those bangles!). Also, as far as sack dresses go, this one's a keeper.


And an African printed suit?! Just check out that cut and fabric!


C'est magnifique!

Trendwatch '08---Florals

Designers this season seemed to take a page from Yves Saint Laurent Spring '07 (above) with it's floral display and a few printed pieces. And so florals showed up in the collections of many designers this season (Balenciaga, Ralph Lauren, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, D&G, Dolce and Gabbana, etc...).
Though this trend may seem tired (think Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada "Florals. For spring. Groundbreaking.") the designers have all taken twists on the blase trend by experimenting with shape and silhouette:

Ralph Lauren, in his remarkable anniversary collection, used florals as print, but also as texture:

Dolce and Gabanna took what would have been just another babydoll floral tent dress and belted it, giving the look a slimmer silhouette. Also the fabric is gorgeous:



D&G similarly employed florals in a more Marc Jacobs-esque sense; fooling around with cut, proportion, and finishing:


Speaking of Marc Jacobs...

Galliano, in his darlingly romantic and character-heavy spectacle showed several floral looks, experimenting with suits, dresses and skirts. Very similar to Ralph Lauren:

Balenciaga was amazing--easily the most interesting use of florals. Ghesquiere took gaudy floral prints of shiny silk and made each model into a warrior with gladiator stilettos. It was ironic empowerment everywhere: floral armor:

What this seemingly boring motif of spring has brought out in these designers is a new way of looking at spring. This trend, however, will die come winter. So pick these beauties while they're available.


Out: The baggy babydoll silhouette is gone. Since Oxford Lace-Up heels were a large part of the whole baggy trend, those may soon be gone as well.