The Craftspeople separated into two schools wherein one tried to hard to make classic clothes and made boring garments ugly, and those who made nice, pretty clothes that took no risks, but one couldn't really criticize them consequently.
Ironically enough, Bottega Veneta was the best example of the first school, starting off the show with an ugly leather dress, belted. With an unflattering bust line and more unflattering shoulder-straps:
Leather is not a dainty fabric. So to make a dress that is supposed to be "elegant, understated, and luxurious" as is the motto of Botega Veneta, you have to edit. The size of those straps with the open bust line create a look that is neither elegant nor understated; it's as if she's growing from a pot of soil. The only thing luxurious about this dress is its probable price.The looks that followed showed more errors in judgment including a leather top and skirt in orange and bright yellow that made the model look more like a pumpkin than anything else, and then a series of strange body suits in matted fabrics reminiscent of Marc Jacob's Fall/Winter '08 show--the one that he admitted outright "lacked inspiration." These body suits are unflattering in pretty much every way: fit, proportion, color, fabric. In short, this collection was a miss.
Overall, these Craftspeople worked within the boundaries of their respective self-restraint, but some fared better than others; Gucci did a great job of both taking a color-risk, and making safe, ultra-wearable garments--also, because of this seasons color palette, these clothes will be re-wearable. Gianni showed, in purple, teal, red, and blue, many looks--from suits to sheath-dresses, and even a hint o safari--that were tasteful, though not quite relevant. It was nice, however, to see her depart from her Russia-obsession. This collection will certainly do well economically:
Other successful craftspeople were Versace, Etro, and Armani (none pictured)--They'll do fine.I do, however, worry about Nina Ricci; sometimes when we're put under any type of performance-pressures, we revert to rehashing previously successful ideas in an attempt to romanticize the past and make it relevant again instead of taking a risk and attempting originality--an author may write the same novel again and again (Stephen King), or a student may re-write, recycle, or simply plagiarize a previous paper. Unfortunately for designer Oliver Theyskens, the Renaissance is long gone (not that prostitution was ever really a flattering look to begin with...):
Though, I must admit, I had high hopes from the first look--a see through dainty dress with an appropriate tail with simple lines and clean presentation:
Then there was a metamorphosis back through time, from top to bottom specifically. The following look simply doesn't work; a white leather rocker jacket with exaggerated shoulders and a flowing silk dress simply cannot go together. The exaggerated shoulders really throw the entire look off by stealing attention from the fishtail of the dress which is equally wide; we have a look caught between classic and contemporary, old and new--it's like watching an aging rocker-mom at a high-society ball. Painful.
...And now on to the Renaissance:
While this look works better than the previous one because of the color and fabric change of the jacket, again the exaggerated shoulders destroy the effect of the fishtail.And now, a blending of the shoulders and the dress, or: The Renaissance
It's the creature from the Champagne Lagoon... in the Renaissance; Run away!It seems to me that so many designers went crazy with constraint to what would be sellable that we get several blatant missteps in taste and judgment. I really hope that Fashion got this slave-to-the-economy business out of its system because, just as tired and boring doesn't sell for prostitutes, it can't bode well for Fashion either.
The Artists that responded to this year's pressures with vigilance and creativity were Raf Simons for Jil Sander, Ralph Lauren, and Rick Owens. Raf Simons and Ralph Lauren are simply masters of the basic, beautiful garment, thus one might wonder if their designs are simply more relevant today than they were last year. Rick Owens was a different story, and we'll get to that later. Either way, they are at the height of their powers:
Raf Simons' show evolved beautifully from the first look: a sculpted fringe dress with a black jacket. Same color palette, different materials, and very creative ideas:
The looks that followed consisted of jackets that played on traditional proportion, and more fringe, beautifully sculpted:
I'd like to add here that this jacket is almost the same proportion as the Bottega pictured, but in a clean, white fabric, not double-breasted with a less dramatic neckline and lapels. It works. You could take away the pants and it would still work.And this is one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. It is also intensely pleasing to see Raf's ideas swirl, intertwine, and produce such wonderful things in such a sensible, beautiful way; the solids and fringes, the color palette, the shaping--one can easily see how this dress evolved from the first look.
Ralph Lauren started his collection off with a traveler, a girl who is certainly going places in her button-up and gold pants. She carries a messenger bag, wears two belts--one that suggests a certain exoticism and the other basic--and is quite ready:
The looks that followed were in a muted palette of beige, black, white and brown, but a quiet excitement still translated: suits in bright white, models wearing turbans suggesting travels and a flair for Orientalism, and some gorgeous evening wear:
This linen dress is gorgeous.Rick Owens' collection, intentional or not, was a clever quip on the current economic downturn. He reportedly called his girls "Priestesses of Longing," but I wonder if these girls weren't part of some post-apocalyptic cult. Either way, the desolate clothes and post-apocalyptic feel of the show and clothes made me chuckle--at least someone has a sense of humor about the imminent world-depression.
In addition to being funny, though, he showed some very interesting looks: Simple, sparse dresses cut out at the waist, Some fabulous structured skirts reminiscent of Comme Des Garcons creation, and some very ambitious skin-work.
And from these successes, we can see the trends for this season: Classic basics in beige, black, brown, white, and grey and suits, suits suits (and other separates). Though I can't say that I'm excited to see what people are wearing next summer, (can you really imagine everyone in black and grey for summer?) I must say I am interested to see where consumers' buying patterns and what sells.
We shall certainly see.
To come:
-Marni; bulimia on the runway
-The best collections
-When are clothes no longer clothes?
